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| Without fear of contradiction Achill is one of the best places in the country to enjoy a camping experience. It is very camper friendly. This is Blackfield's surf school HQ in a double-decker bus, located on the beach opposite the Sandybanks Campsite at Keel. |
Achill, a chill out place to go. Get it? Achill, A CHILL out
place!! Or Achill is sound. Achill Sound anyone? Apologies already. I was
looking for these clever ways to sing the praises of Achill and I’m a glutton
for word play, an addict to puns, I’m sorry. Now that it’s out of my system I
am just going to come right out with it. Achill is amazing.
Without fear of contradiction Achill is one of the best
places in the country to enjoy a camping experience. It’s got variety, lots of
camping options, plenty of activities, an abundance of beautiful blue flag
beaches, green-ways, villages, bars & restaurants, cafes, crafts and art
galleries. I could go on and on…
After much discussion and debate, Achill was our designated main summer holiday location this year,
for ten days and required pre-booking as it was spanning the August bank
holiday at the height of this year’s busy summer.
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| Achill likes to style itself as Ireland’s Holiday Island and this would be difficult to dispute. |
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| A view from the beach of Sandybanks Campsite at Keel. |
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| The scenery in Achill is stunning and constantly changing and surprising. |
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| Slievemore overlooks Seal Caves Campsite at Dugort. |
Achill likes to style itself as Ireland’s Holiday Island and
this would be difficult to dispute. Once you cross over the short bridge at Achill Sound from the mainland you are embarking
on an experience which embraces every outdoor pursuit under the sun from Blacksod Bay to the Atlantic Ocean, the villages and
beaches of Keel, Keem, Dugort, Dooagh
and Dooega, places that boast of Silver
Strand and Golden Strand; laying
claim to the highest sea cliffs in Europe running from Achill Head to Saddle Head
and a section of the 42km Great Western
Greenway which runs from Westport
out to Achill and again not to be too bashful, announces itself as Ireland’s
longest off-road walking and cycling route. It may even be its most popular and
busiest.
But even at that I don’t do justice to place. I have never
come across any destination so geared up to welcome the visitor on board and
with such a quality of tourist information guides and detailed maps all free of
charge from not one, but two tourist offices on the island. There are angling,
diving and island hopping charters, sightseeing tours, surfing lessons, wind
surfing, kite surfing, snorkelling,
seaweed baths and sub aqua diving, Granuaile Loop Walk, Gourmet Greenway,
hang gliding, art, archaeology, photography and Irish language classes in this Gaeltacht
area. I’m exhausted just listing them off. (Oh, there is also a 9-hole golf
links at Keel Sandybanks if you fancy spoiling a good walk).
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| Keem Beach is special and never fails to mesmerise. |
There are stand out spots like Keem Beach, a testing drive across the island and an even more
challenging cycle, but doable if everyone displays some cop on and some common courtesy
for other road users. The view is worth the effort.
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| Sheep graze amid the ruins of the Deserted Village. |
There is the haunting poignancy of the Deserted Village,
ruined and resting beneath the imposing Slievemore,
a glance at which can give you your barometer and weather vane for the day or
for the next couple of hours at least as this is Achill. On the slopes behind
the neglected and abandoned cottages the mountain sheep were my only rivals for
a feast of fresh field mushrooms. I eat them later with a selection of juicy
cutlets from their cousins, with apologies to my vegetarian friends.
As Achill pays homage to its history so too does it look to the future and the Achill Experience Aquarium and Visitor Centre is a brand new string to its bow. It’s an immensely popular attraction which primarily celebrates the diversity and importance of its surrounding shores and sea life, a stark contrast to the days when the island operated as a whaling station. Entry fee is €16 for a family of four. www.achillexperience.ie
As Achill pays homage to its history so too does it look to the future and the Achill Experience Aquarium and Visitor Centre is a brand new string to its bow. It’s an immensely popular attraction which primarily celebrates the diversity and importance of its surrounding shores and sea life, a stark contrast to the days when the island operated as a whaling station. Entry fee is €16 for a family of four. www.achillexperience.ie
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| The smile says it all at the Achill Experience Aquarium. |
After Achill Sound (which is a good place to shop and stock
up on provisions) the busiest hub on the island is in Keel. Here you can have
crepes, cones and candy floss and flash back to your childhood on the carnival
hurdy-gurdies. There is a great beach here with lifeguards on duty, surf boards
for hire and campers in the four star Keel
Sandybanks Caravan and Camping Park have all this on their doorstep and a
splendid view of the Minaun Cliffs.
This is a most popular and convenient campsite but it’s a bit too open and
exposed for my liking. www.achillcamping.com
There is another campsite on the opposite north side of the
island, Lavelle’s at Golden Strand, a quiet and secluded beach which you might
enjoy all to yourself. They have free showers and Wi-Fi. www.lavellescaravanpark.com
We opted for the island’s third campsite, also on the northern
side at Dugort. Achill Seal Caves Camping
is situated opposite Silver Strand beach. It is a caravan and camping park
first established in 1968 which shut down about ten years ago and which
re-opened this year fully refurbished under new owners. Apart from the camping options there are also seven modern mobile homes on site for hire. The new management have taken to
their task with an energy and enthusiasm in this family enterprise and their vigilance
and attention to safety, security and detail is commendable. We were pleased
with our choice to stay here and it’s a great base. Its recent re-opening is a
real seal of approval for Achill Island, the ongoing boom in the tourism sector
and the appeal of unspoilt landscape, outdoor activities such as the greenways
and blueways for which Achill is so suited.
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| Our set up at the Seal Caves campsite which has re-opened this summer under new owners with an entirely new services block and a sharp eye on safety and security. |
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| The stunning Silver Strand beach is just across the road from Seal Caves Camping. |
Seal Caves Campsite is snugly placed and sheltered between Dugort
Hill and Slievemore Mountain on 7.5 acres. It’s just across the road from the
sandy beach, pier and the Blueway kayak trail. The cost for our stay was €252, inclusive of EHU (which is ten nights for the price of nine, a nice touch) but the additional
charge for an awning is annoying. There was a reasonable extra charge of €6
per night for another tent, as our daughter and granddaughter joined us for
the bank holiday weekend. Good quality Wi-Fi is available free of charge throughout
the site and showers are operated by a coin metre, costing €1 for 3 minutes. I
never realised until now that 3 minutes is such a short time… www.achillsealcaves.com
Nevertheless, all this said, a great deal of Achill’s
attractions are seasonal and there is quite of bit of dereliction and premises
for sale around the island. Some hospitality businesses change hands quite a
bit it seems, so it’s best to suss out your options as the service offering and
quality fluctuates.
So in no particular order and no inference for other spots
which we may not have even visited, here is a selection of places in Achill
which Vanhalla is happy to
recommend.
Achill Sound Hotel
& Connaughton’s Bar on the way on to the island is an authentic, hands
on, homely, family run spot where we grabbed a good breakfast on the morning of
our departure. Achill Sound is also the best place to shop for your provisions
and Sweeney’s Super Valu has the
classic needle to an anchor selection of virtually everything you will need.
While Calveys
Butchers based at Keel is world renowned for its mountain lamb we also
found Kettericks Butchers at Achill Sound
first class for fresh, quality meats and other produce. Wouldn’t pass them.
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| A cycle to The Valley House and some refreshments in their courtyard is a great way to while away an evening. |
We got a tip for the Bayside
Bistro in Keel on the Sunday evening before we departed and it was a treat.
A delightful varied menu was good value. Cosy, casual spot and good for
families. Impressed.
Something different out at The Valley House, a hostel, bar and restaurant steeped in history
and wears its shabby chic vibe very well. A lovely courtyard too and a smashing
spot to while away an evening. And for bonus points it’s also within about 20
minutes cycling distance (4.5km) of the Seal
Caves Campsite. (I also got good reports of Lynott’s Bar but will have to wait until the next time to check
that one out in person). Also in Keel is the Amethyst Bar & Grill. Another place that has got a new lease of
life since being refurbished and reopened. I liked the energy here and the
young staff were sharp and friendly. Across the road is a more traditional haunt,
The Annexe Inn. Creamy pints and have
enjoyed a few good music sessions here in the past too.
Pure Magic on the
Slievemore Rd, near Dugort still on the north side of the island started out
its life as an adventure sport centre and hostel for kitesurfing, stand-up paddle
& surfing but these days is as popular for its pizzas, for which they are
travelling for miles.
That’s Pure Magic for you and so too is Achill pure magic.
Like I said at the outset, seriously sound and a chill out
place to take yourself camping, to a seriously camping friendly place.
